Spear’s sees Albert’s as very deliberately not Mayfair or West End, which will be welcome news for those seeking bonhomie as well as bohemia. With its panelled walls and hunting prints, interposed with edgy Norman Parkinson images, Colefax & Fowler wallpaper and Prince Albert memorabilia (love letters no less), Albert’s is more Downton Disco than Downtown. The best thing about Albert’s is that it’s a restaurant that turns into a nightclub rather than a club that pretends to be a restaurant. The chef is Alessio Piras, formerly with the superb Italian seafood restaurants Cecconis, Pescatori and Redhook. Like the whole ethos of the club, the menu is a contemporary twist on the classic, meaning the food is considerably better than at your average club.